Another Fish Story or The Case of Tuna Noodle Casserole

a classic tinned fish recipe from a favorite community cookbook

Tinned fish comes in may forms, tuna, sardines, oysters, shrimp, herring… In addition to being shelf-stable, the tins themselves can add a nice pop of color to your pantry.

I wasn’t sure how the topic of tinned fish would pan out, but it seems you liked it.

I loved Wayne’s request of, “Please, more tinned fish stories!”

Some of you shared recipes you will make with the tinned fish on your pantry shelf

Like Kate who said she would make, “My mom's tuna stuffed rolls most likely. 😉” You can actually find Kates’ recipe here.

or

Sarah who shares, “tinned tuna is the staple ingredient for the pasta I make the kids when I am out of better ideas - they'll reliably eat it and all it takes is the energy to fry an onion, put a can of tomatoes and a can of tuna in the pan, grate through any zucchini or carrot that needs used up (although that bit is optional) and simmer until sauce turns up, all of which I have reliably in the kitchen.

And then there were those of you who were reminded of the importance of the history of food.

Sam’s comment, “always amazed at how many things came from Napoleon's mind and policies. Great read, it's given me a little extra respect and thought for whenever I open a tin of fish - which is often,” makes me realize how important food stories really are.

So in response to the lovely comments from The Heritage Cookbook Project Community, I have another fish story for you.

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In It’s Fishy Business, we discovered the impact of tinned fish on wars, its historic popularity, and why its trending again. In this installment of the Weekly, I thought it might be fun to continue our exploration of tinned fish with a recipe that I’m sure we have all had an experience with or at the very least have heard about, Tuna Noodle Casserole.

Missing covers, dog-eared pages, and stains are all sure signs of a cookbook whose recipes are worth their weight.

This recipe for Tuna-Noodle Casserole comes to us from a community cookbook from my home town. More specifically, from the women of Our Savior’s Lutheran Church and the Our Savior’s ALCW Cookbook. The recipe was contributed by Melanie Olson, no relation, and is presented in narrative form. You know the kind of recipe that reads more like a story than one with a list of ingredients and instructions below. I love this type of format for recipes. It feels more human and the way that a friend would narrate a recipe if asked how she made it.

That said, I’ll present the recipe in the more conventional format as it is the way that most of us have come to expect recipes to be written. Though I hope you enjoy the image from the cookbook.

From Trash to Treasure Fish

Though 85% of Americans have canned tuna fish on a pantry shelf, this economical protein didn’t always enjoy such popularity. It wasn’t until the early 1900’s that this “trash fish” was even considered a palatable ingredient.

It would take the discovery of a method to remove excess oil from tuna that would propel it onto pantry shelves. Canneries happily processed this new less-fishy-tasting fish steaming the fillets turning them a pleasing pale color before canning them. Marketing campaigns would often compare tuna to the taste profile of chicken. And the light color visually reinforced the comparison. With war rations and the rising cost of chicken, tuna began to replace the popular poultry protein.

Casseroles, The Food, The Vessel, The Savior

The word casserole can refer to a food or a cooking vessel. Generally a casserole, a dish cooked slowly in the oven, is cooked in a casserole, a covered, deep, round dish typically made from glass, pottery, or porcelain. Now that that is cleared up, here’s a quick casserole history lesson.

Casseroles are not a new dish. According to the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, “casserole cookery has been around since prehistoric times.” Though, casseroles have evolved through time. Medieval pies, a distant relative to our modern casseroles were made in a crust or coffin, a mixture of water and flour, that created a vessel to hold an assortment of fillings which was cooked slowly. The crust was broken away revealing a satisfying melange of meats, veggies, and spices. Unlike our pie crusts today, these were not eaten.

In the early 18th century, if you were served a casserole it likely came to the table in a pounded rice case and was filled with cuts of meats, sweetbreads, offal, and veggies.

Much like pre-historic, Medieval and 18th century casseroles, our modern casseroles likely had their genesis in times of hardship as they were economical ways to stretch scarce ingredients like, fish, meat, and poultry. The depression of the 1890’s, the Great Depression of the 1930’s, World World I, and World War II would bring the casserole to the forefront of home cooking helping homemakers conquer shortages and rationing.

Tuna Noodle Casserole, the Brain Child of Joseph Campbell?

No, Joseph Campbell didn’t invent the Tuna Noodle Casserole, but his introduction of Cream of Soups would impact casserole cooking across America for years to come.

Quick question, if I were to ask you to make béchamel, would I be met with a vacant stare? I so, I wouldn’t be surprised. The mother sauces are not something that our mother’s or in some cases their mother’s before them taught daughters or sons to make. But if I handed you a can of cream of…soup, I’m betting that you could find several recipes to use it in.

And that’s just what Joseph’s marketing team did. They handed the convenient, pre-made Cream of Mushroom Soup to homemakers and said, “here, take this economical, convenient alternative to homemade sauces and create casseroles your family will love.” Well, maybe they didn’t say that exactly, but that’s what the company’s advertisements, cookbooks, and brochures promoted. And it worked! Joseph may not have invented Tuna Noodle Casserole, but the inclusion of the recipe in corporate campaigns made it a very popular dish in the weeknight rotation as well as the potluck circuit!

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I would love to hear what stories and memories you have of Tuna Noodle Casserole.

Tuna Noodle Casserole

Joseph Campbell’s Cream of Soups would bring an ease to sauce making for weary homemakers. No more slaving over béchamel sauces. Just open a can and you have a pre-prepped sauce ready to create all manner of casseroles including Tuna Noodle

Serves: (6) • Prep: (20 minutes) • Cook Time (20 minutes)

Tuna Noodle Casserole is a staple of potluck fare, an economical, quick weeknight dish, and a great example of how impactful food campaigns can be on the way we eat. Thank you fishing industry and Joseph Campbell.

Ingredients

• 6 ounces medium noodles, cooked

• 1 (15 ounce) can cream of celery soup

• 1/2 cup milk

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 1 cup chopped celery

• 1 (7 ounce) can tuna fish

• 1/3 cup chopped onion

• 1/4 cup chopped green peppers

• 1/4 cup chopped pimento

• 4 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, grated

Instructions

1. Heat oven to 425˚F.

2. Combine soup, milk, mayonnaise, and salt in a medium saucepan stirring to combine.

3. Add celery, tuna, onion, green pepper, and pimento with soup mixture and heat though over medium-high heat, approximately 5 minutes. Do not boil.

4. Remove from heat and stir in the cheese until melted and throughly combined.

5. Stir in noodles and transfer to a two-quart casserole dish.

6. Bake, uncovered for 20 minutes. 

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